Arrived into the Sri Lankan Capitol at 6 am and jumped in a cab for the hour long ride to the centre of town.
Immediately the difference in people was evident, gentle, hassle free and simply happy to chat about the weather.
Again our talent for turning up at large events/ religious festivals was as strong as ever. This time our hotel was slap bang in the middle of the area closed off for the presidential re election celebrations!
Stayed in the Galle Face hotel- beautiful old colonial hotel decked out as you would imagine a luxury hotel to be in 1910. Unfortunately dinner suit had to be substituted for shorts and a shirt but we felt suitably regal for a couple of nights.
Spent the next day organising our country tour. This is the best way to see things in a short time so we had to suck up the cost and get a new driver - Mr Raja.
Sun 21st
Sigriya - towards the centre of the island. Buddhist temple built on top of a volcanic plug. A bout of stomach dodginess meant Sally forgoing the 1500 step ascent to the world heritage sight to vomit in the carpark. Being the good husband I am I left her with Drives and beasted myself up to the top for some incredible views of the surrounding countryside.
22nd
Polonnaruwa - ancient ruined city built around 1000 years old famous for it's giant buddhas carved out of the rock face
Afternoon- safari in Kaudulla. Jeep ride into the bush to see elephants, 3 herds with about 70 nellys in total.
23rd drive to Kandy
Dambulla - ancient city in the centre of the island. This time famous for it's rock temples with 100 s of carvings and paintings of the Buddha.
Matale - temple - lots of strange depictions of hell and demons eating people. Nice
Spice gardens - all the stuff you have in your cupboard in real life.
British Cemetery Kandy - servicemen and women killed during the bombing by the Japanese of Trini and Colombo. Rather moving as the head gardener insisted he took me around, knew every single person buried there and was extremely proud of his immaculate gardens.
Cultural dancing - Kandy. Demo of the 8 or so Sri Lankan dances, lots of drums, two participants who looked like they should be claiming pensions not dragging down the ladies squad average and some top fire walking.
Temple of the sacred tooth relic. Supposedly one of the Buddha's teeth was stolen from his funeral pyre and smuggled over to SL. This is now the symbol of the Sinhalese National identity and of major importance to the Buddhist religion. As with most religious places there was a lot of pushing, a lot of near stampeding and a lot of devout Buddhist Monks taking 'donations' for a blessing.
24th Kitulgalla
Early rise for trip from Kandy to the river side town of Kitulgalla. Stayed at Rafters Retreat which as you may have sussed is a place for White water rafting. River was the location for the filming of 'bridge over the river Kwai'. Rapids weren't massive but very good fun never the less. Our guide also decided to demonstrate how to smash your hip into a boulder by falling out at the last little ripple.
Room was a wooden cabana overlooking the river. No Walls on 2 sides just jungle and the river, great view from the toilet.
25th Ella
Drive up to the central highlands to Ella. Stopped at a tea estate for a quick cup of the local Craig estate brew.
Dropped off at a little town to catch the train for the rest of the journey. Drives assured us it was worth it and he wasn't kidding. This has to be amongst the most beautiful train rides in the world. A little engine and 5 carriages takes you up through the mountains, weaving it's way first through paddy fields then tea plantations in some of the most incredible scenery I have ever seen. A must do journey if you ever come to SL.
Got to a very cloudy Ella around 4 pm. Couldn't really see what the point of the stop was until the mist cleared. As it lifted you could see the mountains open up before you and part themselves down to the sea. Another incredible view,the 8 gb memory card started to earn it's keep.
26 th Ella - Yala
Up at 0520 to catch the sun rise which was well worth it.
Drive to Tissa where we would stay for our safari into Yala national park. Worryingly Raja stopped at the start of the drive to say a prayer to shiva at a roadside temple, he was a catholic so I knew something was up! Unfortunately the week before a Brit had been killed on the same piece of road and he was damn sure we were going to be safe in his hands.
Yala is a massive national park on the south east coast which is famed for it's leopards. We left in our trusty landie at 2 and with our luck we weren't expecting much big cat action. A good omen from the off was a civet cat that walked straight in front of the car and they hadn't seen one of them for 3 months. Luckily the animals were out in force and we saw plenty of crocs, water buffalo, wild boar, honey bee eaters, elephants and snakes. Apparently our luck was in that day as we were fortunate enough to see an unheard of, 3 leopards. 2 walked within a couple of m's of our wagon (excellently spotted by Sally) and 1 was posing rather splendidly on the top of a rock! Absolutely fantastic day and just hope the photos come out.
27 th Yala - Tangalla
Early start to get us the 100 or so km's to the south coast and the end of the mini tour where we would take up our own movements. Me Raja was a star an a genuine top bloke.
Tangalla- beautiful empty beach with a couple of beach huts and a bar. Perfect....
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